A Road Trip through England—Cornwall

From the idyllic Cotswolds we moved on to Cornwall, the far southwestern area of England. Our base was in Fowey (rhymes with boy) on the southern coast. The Old Quay House Hotel is just that: an old building on the harbor front. Driving through the winding, narrow streets of the town, trying to avoid hitting tourists, walls and buildings was a challenge to my driving skills and my wife’s nerves. Alas, once there we learned that the hotel has no parking, so bags were unloaded and then another few harrowing minutes squeezing through alleyways to the public car park about ten minutes’ walk away. This, plus the absence of an elevator or anyone to help with the bags, left me with a less than favorable first impression.

But we quickly came to appreciate the town and the quirky hotel. Our tiny room had an even tinier balcony with a view of the estuary. This feature served as a gathering spot for the town’s birds who hold a lively, cacophonous chirping contest each morning around dawn. The hotel thoughtfully provides complimentary ear plugs. Oh, and our room’s bathroom was spacious and well-appointed, but located down a flight of carpeted stairs. Better not have a nightcap.

In the center of the harbor town sits the imposing old parish church of St. Fimbarrus, not himself very well-known as saints go. The stone structure was erected in the fifteenth century on the site of an ancient Norman church from the twelfth. It is believed that an even earlier church occupied this site before the Norman invasion, perhaps as early as the seventh century. St. Fimbarrus’s church is especially impressive when viewed at night as it is dramatically lighted.

We enjoyed walking along the Esplanade, taking the views of Polruan across the Fowey River, as we headed toward the town beach, known as Readymoney (sounds like a character in a James Bond movie!). Beyond the cove we saw the outline of St. Catherine’s Castle, which is accessible by a cliffside trail beyond the beach. Our best discovery along our walk was the tiny tapas bar, Pintxo de Fowey. Run by a young couple, the inviting spot was full of friendly locals and featured great Spanish wine and authentic Catalan dishes.

The Lizard Lighthouse at England’s southernmost point

Our first excursion beyond Fowey was to the southern-most point of Cornwall (and Britain). We drove to the Lizard peninsula and out to its famous lighthouse. We were lucky—as we have been so often—weather-wise. The views were dramatic. We enjoyed an invigorating walk along the cliffs. Our original plan had been to get together with friends we had met during our trip to Chile last year. They live nearby but had decided to join the million-strong anti-Brexit protest in London that day. Good luck with that—what a mess is Brexit. At least that’s all we heard about during our weeks in England, rather than our own political mess back home.

Allie’s research had uncovered a gem of a tiny village within walking distance of Lizard. Cadgwith was charming, clinging to the cliff-side around a small harbor, with thatched-roofed homes and flowering gardens. Walking along the path from the parking area into the village, we saw a basket filled with bundles of daffodils sitting beside the gate to one of the picturesque homes. A hand-written piece of cardboard beside them said simply “1£”. You’ve got to love a place where the honor system still works. Our warming lattes and fresh crab salad at the Cadgwith Cove Inn topped off a highlight of a great day.

The following day we visited the northern Cornwall coast. Anyone who has watched even one episode of the British show Doc Martin has been charmed by the little town of Portwenn. It is a real place, though it is in real life called Port Isaac. This was a very pleasant stop. Lots of walking up and down the narrow streets and along the dramatic cliffs. All the sites familiar to Doc Martin fans are readily visitable: his surgery, Louisa’s school, even Burt Large’s failed restaurant. If you’re not a fan, excuse this diversion. You really should check the show out, though; then I’m confident you’ll want to visit.

A surprise find was the wide sand beach at Trebarwith nearby. This spot is obviously very popular with families and dog-owners, and we also saw a few surfers braving the chilling water. The air temp was about 50! The castle at Tintagel proved too far a walk from the village, but the views were extraordinary and the coffee and pastries prefect. Allie declared Cornwall her favorite of the areas we visited, which I understand knowing her love of the sea and of dramatic scenery and hikes.